Wrapper

[BenzSPL]

Originally Posted by sri3850341

Most of the time, melted conductors or blown fuses are indication of a few things.
Bad install (loose connections), not using proper sized wire for the current draw, bad grounds.. If you had a connection at a junction block and it welded itself to the junction block then more than likely you had it loose... From my experience if you had used the wrong size cable it would short directly at the source of power..Stuff goes "POOF" when you drop below rail voltage and your still trying to produce a signal, the more you pull the more heat you produce, heat is our enemy.. Maybe you could list your current electrical platform and maybe we could find any issues you might be overlooking.. Remember, your electrical is the foundation your system is built on!! You wouldn't Build a 2 story house on a 4" slab, would ya?

Another little tid bit of info is, your amps and speakers pull Power from the power source, the power source doesn't give it, hence the term "draw", your equipment will pull power till the end, and in doing so works harder the further the power source goes down..

GUESS WHO GUYS???? AND NO CHEATING

Thanks for the advice!

I believe my power wire looks to be 8g, it is too small and I should've known better when the shop installed it because it was the only kit they had and they were open late. Since my amp is weak I thought the wires were big enough to handle it, guess I was wrong.

After my original ground wire exploded, I bought a cheap 4g amp kit and only replaced the ground wire which until this day has not melted or exploded.

Stock battery is my electrical, no upgrades or anything like that.

My system is strictly for a daily driver only and I do not want a competition setup.

Since my battery is located in the trunk, can I ground my amp directly to the negative post on the battery instead of the chassis?