Don't really want to start a new thread for this but can't seem to find specifics . I have 2 type r12's on an sk800.1 wired down to .8ohms and a kinetik hc1400 and I've started having voltage drop with my new amp causing my lights to dim dramatically but before it didn't I'm wondering if I should add a high output alt or another battery for just the system like a hc2400 .... What's my best bet?
Well it must be a small stock alt for a 800w amp to dim that dramatically but is your kinetic battery your only Battery as in stock location or is it a second battery. Also what is your wiring like did you do the big3 and have sufficient size cable?
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2 12" Sundown Z.V3 Subwoofers
Infinity Reference 6.5 coax's+ Massive Audio 3 1/2's in dash
2-Crescendo BC2000.D'S strapped at 1/2 Ohm
Head Unit Pioneer DEH8300SD
Singer 275 (320 peak) Amp H.O. Alt.
Stinger OFC 0GA Power Wire & 0GA Knu Koncepts Kolassus
SSA dual inputs & terminal Distribution blocks
Big 4 done (OFC)
Extra Stinger Agm Batt. X2 (Three total)
4.5cf. Aeroported Enclosure Tuning:32HZ
Well it must be a small stock alt for a 800w amp to dim that dramatically but is your kinetic battery your only Battery as in stock location or is it a second battery. Also what is your wiring like did you do the big3 and have sufficient size cable?
It took the place of my regular battery , I've done the big 3 with 0ga Wire except my ground which is 4ga
First off get that ground to same ga Wire that alone can cause dimming but for a amp that small if u don't plan on upgrading I say get another nice agm battery for the rear it's cheaper than a alt and should take care of the dimming.
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2 12" Sundown Z.V3 Subwoofers
Infinity Reference 6.5 coax's+ Massive Audio 3 1/2's in dash
2-Crescendo BC2000.D'S strapped at 1/2 Ohm
Head Unit Pioneer DEH8300SD
Singer 275 (320 peak) Amp H.O. Alt.
Stinger OFC 0GA Power Wire & 0GA Knu Koncepts Kolassus
SSA dual inputs & terminal Distribution blocks
Big 4 done (OFC)
Extra Stinger Agm Batt. X2 (Three total)
4.5cf. Aeroported Enclosure Tuning:32HZ
Also do you have a dedicated ground Wire from front battery to rear or just a body ground right in back by amp.if u don't have a dedicated ground from front battery to amp that alone will help.
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2 12" Sundown Z.V3 Subwoofers
Infinity Reference 6.5 coax's+ Massive Audio 3 1/2's in dash
2-Crescendo BC2000.D'S strapped at 1/2 Ohm
Head Unit Pioneer DEH8300SD
Singer 275 (320 peak) Amp H.O. Alt.
Stinger OFC 0GA Power Wire & 0GA Knu Koncepts Kolassus
SSA dual inputs & terminal Distribution blocks
Big 4 done (OFC)
Extra Stinger Agm Batt. X2 (Three total)
4.5cf. Aeroported Enclosure Tuning:32HZ
Also do you have a dedicated ground wire from front battery to rear or just a body ground right in back by amp.if u don't have a dedicated ground from front battery to amp that alone will help.
Just get another smaller kinetik or agm battery in back that should take care of your issues like STK said
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Just get another smaller kinetik or agm battery in back that should take care of your issues like STK said
I do have a plan to upgrade this winter before the start up of comps... The plan is 2 ddx's and another 800.1 so I'm wondering if I should just go ahead and buy the big battery or not?
Adding a battery will help and probably stop the dimming but your voltage will still be doping to 12.8. It will just stay there because you have more battery power.
Adding an alternator will keep your voltage up above 12.8. Which is good.
Can't use my system with my car off my voltage will drop too much . With the car on it was dropping to 11.3-11.5 at full tilt
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deepmud35
Regularly at 3/4 volume it's at 12.5 or lil above ... No clipping at any of those volt measures either
Good way to kill batteries, system, and/or alt. Are you absolutely sure your not clipping?
It's hard to say how efficient that amp is at 1 ohm. @ 4 ohms it claims 85%< but at 1 ohm it may only be 50% or less. So even though people say its only 800 W and this shouldn't happen you'd be surprised when you factor in efficiency. Meaning if its 50% efficient at 1 ohm means you need 1200W to get that 800W and on top of that many manufactors build in a HO/LO regulation system in the stock ECM. Usually there is a slight delay leading to major issues down the road.
In my car I figure I have 1-2 seconds of delay before the regulation system kicks into HO but at that point its to late. Hence why I'm going with a HO alt, and bypassing this system.
Electrical is THE foundation in a audio system. I've always said that. Improper electrical can lead to major problems in the future.
I say get another nice agm battery for the rear it's cheaper than a alt and should take care of the dimming.
I have since upgraded from what I had when I created this thread. I now have a new vehicle as well , Singer 250A alt , dual runs of Knu Koncepts 1/0 ofc power and grounds, Kinetik hc3800(switching out for Northstar NSB480) , Digital Designs 3800.1 , and 2 EM audio 10’s.
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