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Accessories & Electrical Alternators, Batteries, Tools & Sound Deadening

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Old 01-05-2008   #76 (permalink)
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sorry i misread your post, i thought you were asking what to put between your amp connection. anyway i would put a fuse in that matches the output of your alt. so if you have a 120 amp alt get a 120 amp fuse.
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Old 01-29-2008   #77 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crunch1 View Post
Batt to Alt
Chassis to Block
Batt to chassis

1,2,3 easy as pie. I dont use a fuse for the Alt to batt connection, because I get better Power that way. You can fuse this connection to protect the Batt if you want, but there is a trade off for power. The less fuses the less resistance there is. 4guage would be the minimum to use for the Big 3 The bigger the better. I leave the stock wiring in place and just add to this, because power will travel the path of least resistance. Removing the stock wires is just more work. To me the Alt to block connection is already there because of the fact the Alt is bolted to the block(unless for some reason they have the Alt isolated from the block then yes upgrade this connection). Not all power cable is heat resistant some cable is really cheap and the covering on the cable is even cheaper. Stick to trusted brands Rockford,Tsunami,Kicker ect... If your not sure about the quality. If your placing most any cable to close to the exhaust manifold it will melt. Use heat shield If you (must) rout your cable close to a extreme heat source. Its way better to spend the extra bucks on a little more length of cable than to risk frying your cable. The whole deal for the Big 3 is to keep your volts up, so that you get the most out of your system. Amps are more likely to fry from low voltage than from to much voltage.

You don't fuse your positive Wire to the battery. Suppose the battery explode?
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Old 01-29-2008   #78 (permalink)
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You don't fuse your positive wire to the battery. Suppose the battery explode?
lets do say the batt explodes then ur in for a good treat. but in my Car the 0 gauge wire that i ran to the back batt i didint fuse either a and i hope i never have to deal with my car cathing fire that would suck i would definatly fuse it but i am waiting for the day that my car burns down ima let it burn and start my next project. lol
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Old 01-29-2008   #79 (permalink)
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newbs..
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Old 02-20-2008   #80 (permalink)
 
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I am using 2 gauge wiring for the big three and from the alt to the battery i was wondering if a 250 amp inline fuse would be ok instead of 200 amp.....just incase i decide to get a HO alt later down the road?
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Old 02-20-2008   #81 (permalink)
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it will be ok, but IMO you should start low and replace it later.
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Old 02-29-2008   #82 (permalink)
 
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i think for the time being since i havent bought a new alternator im going to run the 2 gauge without the fuse for now and when i replace the alternator ill hook up a anl fuse in line.
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Old 04-02-2008   #83 (permalink)
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What's a good alternator brand? I have a 98 neon, and the alternator is kind of in a tight and secluded area, so I would have to get one that's made for my car, and I don't think anyone makes one. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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Old 04-03-2008   #84 (permalink)
 
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having some doubts. can i use the same stock point to ground the new wire? ( bat neg to chassis , and also chassis to engine. could i use the original grounding points. thanks.
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Old 05-07-2008   #85 (permalink)
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Quote:
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having some doubts. can i use the same stock point to ground the new wire? ( bat neg to chassis , and also chassis to engine. could i use the original grounding points. thanks.

Yes you can do that because nothing is wrong with that.
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Old 07-17-2008   #86 (permalink)
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im looking over my big 3 wires and my alt to batt wire splits off one way to the fuse box and another way w/ a wire harness to what looks like a pump on my engine. can i just run the one wire to the fuse box and leave the one to the pump w/o upgraded wire? (ill be leaving all stock wiring there and just adding on.) also i have a 95 amp alt and im puttin 0 ga wire for my big 3, my alt->batt wire already has a 175 amp in-line fuse from the factory. do i need to get a bigger fuse and if so what size?
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Old 07-17-2008   #87 (permalink)
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anyone?
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Old 07-17-2008   #88 (permalink)
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mine does that too, i left the original in and ran a new one from alt straight to the batt
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Old 07-18-2008   #89 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blksupra431 View Post
im looking over my big 3 wires and my alt to batt wire splits off one way to the fuse box and another way w/ a wire harness to what looks like a pump on my engine. can i just run the one wire to the fuse box and leave the one to the pump w/o upgraded wire? (ill be leaving all stock wiring there and just adding on.) also i have a 95 amp alt and im puttin 0 ga wire for my big 3, my alt->batt wire already has a 175 amp in-line fuse from the factory. do i need to get a bigger fuse and if so what size?

I'm not sure what car you have but maybe if you take a photo under your hood and will probably know what it loook like.
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Old 08-06-2008   #90 (permalink)
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the big 3 helped my system for sure on a weak stock alt with a duralast gold batt in a 2000 chevy blazer with the system off with a cold start it reads 14.8v on my fuse block with the system half cranked it reads in the realm of 13.3v drops to 12.7 on a good bass note pulling 90 amps after the big 3 warm start 15.2v half cranked 14.1v drops to 13.7v on the same bass note pulling 92 amps im useing stinger 4ga for the amp run on a 175 amp fuse and kicker 0ga for the big 3 with no fuse from the alt to the bat + bat+ to alt, bat- to chassis ground,block to frame and i have noticed that the subs hit alot louder than usual so im happy

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Old 09-26-2008   #91 (permalink)
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How long did you took you figure that out?
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Last edited by kensaudio99; 09-26-2008 at 10:27 AM.
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Old 12-08-2008   #92 (permalink)
 
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Default big 3 and backup battery.

OKay so if im having no dimming or drop of voltage.i do have a kinetic backup is that gonna be sufficient in the long run ? Or should i go ahead and do the big 3 along with the battery backup??
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Old 12-08-2008   #93 (permalink)
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Yes do the big three with the battery backup.
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Old 03-26-2009   #94 (permalink)
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ok
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Old 05-15-2009   #95 (permalink)
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Has anyone done the big 3 on a 98-01 ford explorer v6 (ohv)? Wanting to do mine but having a hard time seeing all the connections.
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Old 09-01-2009   #96 (permalink)
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Default Re: Big 3

I did the big 3 on HOnda civic 2002 about 2 year ago. This was done when we got everything hook up. I arrange everything by adding gommet, cable tied, and we put back the stock wire.
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Old 09-01-2009   #97 (permalink)
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Default Re: Big 3

after the big 3, new 180amp alt., and extra batt in my 02 yukon there is plenty of extra bass.
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Old 10-27-2009   #98 (permalink)
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Default Re: Big 3

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scarrell View Post
ok.. so i just bought some 2gauge wire, and 6ring terminals.. hoping to do the big 3(still am), and my damn altenator is at the bottom of the car.. its a 95 Saturn SC2.. anyone know off hand where the ground for the alt is? because i cant find it, even looking under the car.. any hints or tricks?
Your alternator ground comes from the case of the alternator. Positive is the post with a 10mm hex head nut on the back. If you want to ensure a excellent ground, remove the bolt that holds the alternator in that is very long. It should have a press type rollpin bushing that presses against the alt when you tighten the bolt down. Then put a wire on that bolt when you reinstall it and connect it directly to the frame or to the battery but you will need one to the frame regardless. this will help lower the resitance as the ground travels through the aluminium bracket that houses the alternator then through the engine block and then to the frame and battery. Typicaly this is the way gm alternators are set up but I have not workes on a saturn so the pos post may be on the side as another posted but should be on the back.


Nevermind, I just realized this is a very old thread....

Last edited by SPL185; 10-27-2009 at 09:44 AM.
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Old 11-05-2009   #99 (permalink)
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Default Re: Big 3

Oooh BIG 3 !

Put your hands up if you took out a knife and scraped that paint away to reveal a shiny bit of metal looking back at ya? Heavy DC likes to arc between contacts, causing heat that melts metal. If you will, imagine you got Microscope eyes. Take a look at your scratched surface. Can you picture grooves in the surface? You need to hone it flat with a fine abrasive. You need to buff the metal. Like when you sharpen a blade. On a course stone the blade edge is rough, as you go up to a finer grade, the metal shines and is smooth. This will give maximum electrical contact with minimal arcing.
The same can be said for semiconductors. Lapping. Maximum heat transfer can take place between a Transistor tab and a Heatsink.Less thermal compound can be used, itself a resistance to heat. CPU's in your PC is the same, bet the heatsink has a tonne of white grease squirting out from the sides.

I use a Natural sharpening stone where possible. Its good for my chisels. A good blade on a cabinet makers chisel, will shave your hairs off. Even the nut of a nut and bolt that holds your Alternator to the engine, (Negative) can be buffed on a stone.

So give your metal a buff and make the most of the BIG 3

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Old 05-21-2011   #100 (permalink)
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Default Re: Big 3

i have a question what gauge should be used for the avarage big 3??
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