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Old 08-20-2009   #26 (permalink)
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Default Re: gearstix design

Solid design here.
I would mount the subs across the front, like MJF is suggesting.
However I really doubt it would cause the subs to fail the way it is.
I've done it before, and my subs have survived.

Terminal cups are nice. How often will you have the seats down? Nothin like showing off a box with a Wire sticking out. But if no one will see it, then don't bother. Strength wise, i doubt it makes a difference. I've had no problems with them, and my 2 15s.

Double baffle is good, flush mount is optional. But honestly you might as well flush mount them, the extra wood for the screws to bite in is unnecessary. You could go all out and get T-Nuts and machine screws and then it's even less of a problem.

But either way, looks like a solid design to me.



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Old 08-20-2009   #27 (permalink)
 
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Default Re: gearstix design

okay. If it fits with the seats up then I will probably leave the seats up.

I don't think I'll flush mount them..

I may pick up the terminal cups.. it don't really matter to me..
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Old 08-20-2009   #28 (permalink)
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Default Re: gearstix design

in the front chamber is better but I have been designing boxes for this other guy who need them the other way so I got in a habit it'll make very little difference on your Power though
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Old 08-20-2009   #29 (permalink)
 
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Default Re: gearstix design

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Originally Posted by wenn_du_weinst View Post
in the front chamber is better but I have been designing boxes for this other guy who need them the other way so I got in a habit it'll make very little difference on your Power though
Well could you do it in sketchup quickly?
No big deal.

I used to have a 3D model of the spl-12s, well at least the surround and the dust cap and stuff..
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Old 08-20-2009   #30 (permalink)
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Default Re: gearstix design

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fallen View Post
Solid design here.
I would mount the subs across the front, like MJF is suggesting.
However I really doubt it would cause the subs to fail the way it is.
I've done it before, and my subs have survived.

Terminal cups are nice. How often will you have the seats down? Nothin like showing off a box with a wire sticking out. But if no one will see it, then don't bother. Strength wise, i doubt it makes a difference. I've had no problems with them, and my 2 15s.

Double baffle is good, flush mount is optional. But honestly you might as well flush mount them, the extra wood for the screws to bite in is unnecessary. You could go all out and get T-Nuts and machine screws and then it's even less of a problem.

But either way, looks like a solid design to me.
the extra wood makes a huge differance.
especially with drivers over forty pounds
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Old 08-20-2009   #31 (permalink)
 
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Default Re: gearstix design

55lbs each for the subs.
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Old 08-20-2009   #32 (permalink)
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Default Re: gearstix design

I wouldn't flush mount, but i like **** to be as sturdy can be.
witch is why i run double baffle in the rear to.
that extra 3/4 will give you more security. (just don't drive the screws all the way through.) if you didnt already know.
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Old 08-20-2009   #33 (permalink)
 
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Default Re: gearstix design

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Originally Posted by HideousLyric View Post
that extra 3/4 will give you more security. (just don't drive the screws all the way through.)
If I have enough mdf I'll do a double bottom baffle. I dont understand what you mean about teh screws.. lol.
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Old 08-21-2009   #34 (permalink)
 
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Default Re: gearstix design

Well I got so much cut up but I need more MDF, going to try to get a half sheet somewhere, or less.

Got the bottom and top two pieces done, and the port pieces cut, and I think the back.
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Old 08-22-2009   #35 (permalink)
 
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Default Re: gearstix design

Looking at this picture,

my dad and I were wondering how the port is 'assembled'...

Which is it?

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Old 08-22-2009   #36 (permalink)
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Default Re: gearstix design

Quote:
Originally Posted by HideousLyric View Post
the extra wood makes a huge differance.
especially with drivers over forty pounds
Hardly makes a difference when they are mounted on Top. If anything being heavier helps it hold tighter.

But regardless, it should be done with T-Nuts and machine screws if holding power is such a concern.



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Old 08-22-2009   #37 (permalink)
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Default Re: gearstix design

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearstix View Post
Well I got so much cut up but I need more MDF, going to try to get a half sheet somewhere, or less.

Got the bottom and top two pieces done, and the port pieces cut, and I think the back.
For some reason i remember telling you you'd need a sheet and a half
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Old 08-22-2009   #38 (permalink)
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Default Re: gearstix design

Not too hard to figure out man. If you have all the wood cutout, it goes the way that keeps the port width the same. If the port is narrower at the back, then you did it wrong lol.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearstix View Post
Looking at this picture,

my dad and I were wondering how the port is 'assembled'...

Which is it?



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Old 08-22-2009   #39 (permalink)
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Default Re: gearstix design


second way
and flush mount will not change a thing my subs weigh 100 pounds each and they have no problem with being flush mounted
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Old 08-22-2009   #40 (permalink)
 
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Default Re: gearstix design

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Originally Posted by wenn_du_weinst View Post
second way
and flush mount will not change a thing my subs weigh 100 pounds each and they have no problem with being flush mounted
Not sure if theres enough room to flush mount them...

I hope these 1-3/4" deck screws don't split the mdf. How often should it be screwed?
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Old 08-22-2009   #41 (permalink)
 
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Default Re: gearstix design

Well we haven't gotten anything assembled or screwed together yet. But we got everything cut out today. Went and bought a scrap piece from the hardware store, as we only needed to make the front piece.

Assembly tomorrow.
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Old 08-23-2009   #42 (permalink)
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Default Re: gearstix design

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Originally Posted by Gearstix View Post
Not sure if theres enough room to flush mount them...

I hope these 1-3/4" deck screws don't split the mdf. How often should it be screwed?
Do yourself a favor and get drywall screws. If you pilot the holes it should not split. Go every 4-6" or so.



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Old 08-23-2009   #43 (permalink)
 
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Default Re: gearstix design

We did so much of the port with deck screws.

Then we went and got 1-5/8" fine thread drywall screws.It did split a bit but we glued the splits. Then after we get done with most the box, I come in and I see in the chatbox somebody said to put them in soapy water.. or put soap on them.

We did pilot and counter sink them.

It turned out okay I think. I still need to figure out my sub placement and cut the holes out.
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Old 08-23-2009   #44 (permalink)
 
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Default Re: gearstix design





This piece got knocked out, but we glued it back in. Its on the bottom of the box. I think I may putsomething on the bottom to reinforce it.







I'm going to try to figure out the sub placement tomorrow on the second baffle and get that cut out. Then I'll put both baffles together.

What do you guys think?

I'll get better pics tomorrow.
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Old 08-24-2009   #45 (permalink)
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Default Re: gearstix design

looks very good for first box
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Old 08-24-2009   #46 (permalink)
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Default Re: gearstix design

Yep, it looks good. It looks alot better than my first box!



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Old 08-24-2009   #47 (permalink)
 
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Default Re: gearstix design

Hopefully it sounds good.
Its raining.. I may try to figure out my sub location and then draw it out. I'll probably get a serpentine saw from my cousin since it has a circle guide and he says it does nice cuts.

I don't have an amp yet though so no test.
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Old 08-24-2009   #48 (permalink)
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Default Re: gearstix design

My Serpentine saw is a POS. I can do cleaner circles with my jig saw. The serpentine saw has a nasty amount of walk, it is constantly trying to move to the left(even with the circle jig), due to the rotating bit. I also went through a bit after two cutouts...MDF is too hard for the bits that came with mine. I figured it would work as well as a plunge router, but its just not the same.

So just a word of warning I guess.

The placement of the subs is easy, don't make it a big deal lmao. Just make it symetrical and it will look nice, and place them horizontally and you'll be fine(oo).



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My Serpentine saw is a POS. I can do cleaner circles with my jig saw. The serpentine saw has a nasty amount of walk, it is constantly trying to move to the left(even with the circle jig), due to the rotating bit. I also went through a bit after two cutouts...MDF is too hard for the bits that came with mine. I figured it would work as well as a plunge router, but its just not the same.

So just a word of warning I guess.

The placement of the subs is easy, don't make it a big deal lmao. Just make it symetrical and it will look nice, and place them horizontally and you'll be fine(oo).
Okay.
I'm not sure what I will cover the box with. But I'm going to order my amp sometime this week and I wanna try the box out before I spend any money finishing it.
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Old 08-24-2009   #50 (permalink)
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Default Re: gearstix design

Have ye no faith?



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