gearstix design - Realm of Excursion



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Old 08-19-2009   #1 (permalink)
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Default gearstix design




top and bottom: 3-33.75x26.5
sides: 2-14.75x26.5
front: 1-27.25x14.75
back: 1- 32.25x14.75
port 1: 1- 20.75x14.75
port 2: 1 14.75x5
here is where I would mount your amp at and keep you seat up
it will fit and will not touch box mine don't

here it is seats folded down
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Old 08-20-2009   #2 (permalink)
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Default Re: gearstix design

I have to do a blazer today - think I might use this, this looks good!
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Old 08-20-2009   #3 (permalink)
 
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Default Re: gearstix design

I just gotta measure and make sure it fits, unless you did get the measurements for a two door?
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Old 08-20-2009   #4 (permalink)
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Default Re: gearstix design

Yep, that for the two door. Looks good, I got 26" front to back, 37'' wide(between the fenders) and about 17'' tall. That keeps it just at the window line.
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Old 08-20-2009   #5 (permalink)
 
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Default Re: gearstix design

Would it be better if I mounted the subs ontop of the second baffle? that would give the screws more to anchor to would it not?
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Old 08-20-2009   #6 (permalink)
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Default Re: gearstix design

Ya, thats how I do it.
The other way looks nicer but isn't as sturdy
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Old 08-20-2009   #7 (permalink)
 
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Default Re: gearstix design

Should I use these or are they a bad idea? One per sub?

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Old 08-20-2009   #8 (permalink)
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Default Re: gearstix design

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearstix View Post
Should I use these or are they a bad idea? One per sub?

i try to avoid using terminal cups because of the cut out thats needed.

I stick with brass nuts and bolts if i do terminals (I can't find copper) or I'd just run wires directly through.



Note to Wenn, I'd personally put the subs horizontally vs. vertically like you have, it's mostly personal preference but I try to avoid having a sub exposed to the port due to pressure differences that can happen and its such an easy change to make, sure you know that much
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Old 08-20-2009   #9 (permalink)
 
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Default Re: gearstix design

Quote:
Originally Posted by mjf595 View Post


Note to Wenn, I'd personally put the subs horizontally vs. vertically like you have, it's mostly personal preference but I try to avoid having a sub exposed to the port due to pressure differences that can happen and its such an easy change to make, sure you know that much
I'm not 100% sure what you mean here...


having the subs like this O O

instead of like

O
O

right?
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Old 08-20-2009   #10 (permalink)
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Default Re: gearstix design

Those terminal cups make connecting wires nice, clean and easy,
not to mention it makes your box look more professional.

Whats his face is right tho, the cut out is essentially a hole in the box coved by a thin piece of plastic. So it depends on the quality of the terminals, I always glue a piece of mdf over the hole, this assures that there is no flex to be had.

I use those on all my boxes, just reinforce the hole.
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Old 08-20-2009   #11 (permalink)
 
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Default Re: gearstix design

It says the Wire holes are 6mm.. hmm. Not sure if they'll work.

"
Two-position gold-plating terminal mounting plates feature a screw-type terminal style. 19mm pitch size, 6mm diameter wire hole.

"
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Old 08-20-2009   #12 (permalink)
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Default Re: gearstix design

Why wouldn't that work?
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Old 08-20-2009   #13 (permalink)
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Default Re: gearstix design

What are you gonna put in them boxes, anyway?
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Default Re: gearstix design

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Originally Posted by HideousLyric View Post
What are you gonna put in them boxes, anyway?
What subs? The ones I have for sale, lol.
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Old 08-20-2009   #15 (permalink)
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Default Re: gearstix design

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearstix View Post
I'm not 100% sure what you mean here...


having the subs like this O O

instead of like

O
O

right?
exactly, or the closest you can fit them in considering the dimensions are pretty tight for 2 12"s

Quote:
Originally Posted by HideousLyric View Post
Those terminal cups make connecting wires nice, clean and easy,
not to mention it makes your box look more professional.

Whats his face is right tho, the cut out is essentially a hole in the box coved by a thin piece of plastic. So it depends on the quality of the terminals, I always glue a piece of mdf over the hole, this assures that there is no flex to be had.

I use those on all my boxes, just reinforce the hole.
what's his face?

cmon
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Old 08-20-2009   #16 (permalink)
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Default Re: gearstix design

fvck terminal cups... resistance losses and prone to being a noise leak or weakness in the box... drill a small hole and put the Wire straight thru the box, silicone to make an air tight seal. Do it in a spot that's not in the port, and not noticible.
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Old 08-20-2009   #17 (permalink)
 
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Default Re: gearstix design

Hmm..

I'm just wondering if there's a reason why he put the subs like that...

Can I cut the sub holes out once the box is built?
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Old 08-20-2009   #18 (permalink)
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Default Re: gearstix design

Yes, double facia is always sweeter.
Yes, terminal cups are not really needed unless you are going to use them a lot(box in,out, in, out of car. )
Yes, put the subs in a row, not on top of eachother, actually it would best to put them as close to the vent wall as poss.
I just finished mine a few minutes ago, just got back from the pool, should be ready for another coat of paint, I will get pics up in a sec.
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Old 08-20-2009   #19 (permalink)
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Default Re: gearstix design

It is always the last cut I make. The Sub cut outs, I mean.
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Old 08-20-2009   #20 (permalink)
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Default Re: gearstix design

Quote:
Originally Posted by DD9915D!!! View Post
It is always the last cut I make. The Sub cut outs, I mean.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DD9915D!!! View Post
Yes, double facia is always sweeter.
Yes, terminal cups are not really needed unless you are going to use them a lot(box in,out, in, out of car. )
Yes, put the subs in a row, not on top of eachother, actually it would best to put them as close to the vent wall as poss.
I just finished mine a few minutes ago, just got back from the pool, should be ready for another coat of paint, I will get pics up in a sec.
stop double posting.

the basic thing you're going to reduce is the possibility that one sub will unload vs another.
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Old 08-20-2009   #21 (permalink)
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Default Re: gearstix design

is always esaier to cut it out last. thers no chance of the mdf breaking, the mdf dosent move when you cut it, and i always Build my boxes with a double baffle so it insures that both sheets will hve the same cut out.
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Old 08-20-2009   #22 (permalink)
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Default Re: gearstix design

Quote:
Originally Posted by mjf595 View Post
stop double posting.

the basic thing you're going to reduce is the possibility that one sub will unload vs another.
Maybe he forgot he could edit.
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AQ 2200/d,JBL 1000/4
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15'' RF T115d2 3.75 ft/[email protected] hz
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Old 08-20-2009   #23 (permalink)
 
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Default Re: gearstix design

I got 1 sheet of 3/4" MDF. its bigger than I thought it'd be, lol.

Got 1-3/4" Deck screws, they didn't have 2" ones.

Dad is getting glue from work because they have alot left over from renovations.

And he didn't want me to buy a piece of dowel for the brace, he says he can rip a piece of 2x4 for it.. would that work?

I'm surprised Wenn hasn't replied about the sub positioning...
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Old 08-20-2009   #24 (permalink)
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Default Re: gearstix design

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearstix View Post
I got 1 sheet of 3/4" MDF. its bigger than I thought it'd be, lol.

Got 1-3/4" Deck screws, they didn't have 2" ones.

Dad is getting glue from work because they have alot left over from renovations.

And he didn't want me to buy a piece of dowel for the brace, he says he can rip a piece of 2x4 for it.. would that work?

I'm surprised Wenn hasn't replied about the sub positioning...
ya, you got silicone sealant too right?
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Old 08-20-2009   #25 (permalink)
 
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Default Re: gearstix design

We have Mono brand at the house
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