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Topic Review (Newest First)
08-22-2009 11:10 AM
Savage
Re: Power Cable

I used to solder everything, but for my last build I bought hammer on terminals for my 1/0 and 2/0 runs.
honestly, I don't see myself ever going back to just soldering. the terminals are far from cheap (something like $7 apiece) but the connection is absolutely solid, and it's easy. no special tools required
08-21-2009 01:50 PM
creyc
Re: Power Cable

Quote:
Originally Posted by eglish View Post
True. I never solder anything larger than 10ga b/c by that time we're talking massive amount of power, but since this is partly a technical discussion, soldering is still WAY better than crimping.
Soldering is only "better" because it's easier to do without the proper tools and still get a decent result.

A real, properly crimped connection basically cold welds the individual copper strands into one large solid chunk of copper with a ring terminal on it.

Of course it takes a few thousand pounds of force and a special tool to do these crimps, so almost everyone in this hobby does them wrong. Which is why crimping gets a bad name.
08-21-2009 06:54 AM
shaz
Re: Power Cable

ok so multiple wire runs situation using one battery up front....one 6inch wire run from battery post to distroblock.....then 3 runs from distroblock upto another distroblock by the amp in the trunk where again it turns into a single 6 inch run into the amplifier....do the long runs need fusing individually after the distroblock up front?? or just the one 6inch run needs fuse on the single run between the battery post and distroblock??
08-17-2009 06:44 PM
eglish
Re: Power Cable

Quote:
Originally Posted by Subs4life View Post
I didn't wan't to print it(it sounds crazy), so I called a friend, and he said it, Mopar performance stated you lost 100 amps a foot, they were talking about a battery up front & loss to the starter. I'm assuming they're speaking of factory wire which is 4 gage. I made my first attempt to the trunk with 16 feet of 2ga, the motor turned over slow, so my next stop was 1/0, cranking the motor was still slow when cold, so I skipped to 3/0. I know the amplifiers don't cry for 600caa, & if the cable actually lost that much, my engine would still not start. I'm very interested in the science of it all, I'd have saved money & time.
I wasn't sure when you said crank as in music or engine. Regarding your engine situation, an engine crank actually exhibits some AC properties because of the sudden surge in power. I'm not too familiar and never oscoped an engine crank but I'd imagine you'd probably didn't get full saturation on your power cable. (an AC exhibited property)

Quote:
Originally Posted by creyc View Post
Don't need to solder if you have crimps
True. I never solder anything larger than 10ga b/c by that time we're talking massive amount of power, but since this is partly a technical discussion, soldering is still WAY better than crimping.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lanman31337
2 runs of welding wire should will be plenty.
to the OP. 2 runs of 1/0 or bigger will be more than enough. Doesn't matter brand.

It might help you if you decide where the runs will be to see how flexible of a cable you will need. Brand will matter in this case, but electrical performance won't be much different, if at all.
08-17-2009 01:24 PM
creyc
Re: Power Cable

Quote:
Originally Posted by eglish View Post
Many companies also tin the strands for a number of reasons (rigidity, corrosion resistance and helps if you actually solder your wire like you're supposed to), like the Hyperflex mentioned.
Don't need to solder if you have crimps
08-17-2009 12:36 PM
Optimus_Prime
Re: Power Cable

Im running 1hc2400 and a d3100. with one run of 2/0 welding from alt to batt. the batt in my car is factory located in the rear underneath the back seat so its a pretty long run from alt to rear where all batts are.
08-17-2009 11:30 AM
Savage
Re: Power Cable

Quote:
Originally Posted by Optimus_Prime View Post
Who makes the best 1/0 power cable. and how many runs from alt to batts should i run for saz4500d.
alot of people love Knu or Kicker. I've run a bit of everything and have settled on welding cable because I get more for my dollar. but I do miss the flexibility.

if you're asking for number of runs to the alternator, go with 1 and make sure it's fused (and do the remaining 2 of the BIG 3 at the same time). it's a short distance, the biggest voltage drop is going to occur between the front battery and the rear battery/ies or amp.

how many batteries are you running with this amp? how long will these runs be?
08-16-2009 09:07 PM
Subs4life
Re: Power Cable

Quote:
Originally Posted by eglish View Post
What you're talking about could make sense if you posted some numbers. I am trying to explain things in the realm of science and numbers, not just "rules of thumb." The fuse rating on an amp is another rule of thumb that isn't always accurate as an example.

With your situation you could be running enough power that you should have upgraded your power wires anyways, or if you're talking about playing music, you could be hitting transients in the song that effect your performance.

I talk too much for a lurker.
I didn't wan't to print it(it sounds crazy), so I called a friend, and he said it, Mopar performance stated you lost 100 amps a foot, they were talking about a battery up front & loss to the starter. I'm assuming they're speaking of factory wire which is 4 gage. I made my first attempt to the trunk with 16 feet of 2ga, the motor turned over slow, so my next stop was 1/0, cranking the motor was still slow when cold, so I skipped to 3/0. I know the amplifiers don't cry for 600caa, & if the cable actually lost that much, my engine would still not start. I'm very interested in the science of it all, I'd have saved money & time.
08-16-2009 07:18 PM
lanman31337
Re: Power Cable

2 runs of welding wire should will be plenty. I'll have ~7200 watt rms shortly and I have a run of 3/0 and a run of 1/0.
08-16-2009 04:46 PM
aireffects
Re: Power Cable

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnecon2001 View Post
Welding wire tbqh.
4 runs positive, 4 negative.
ya i got mine local $2.60 a foot, not bad for 1/0 copper
08-16-2009 01:37 PM
eglish
Re: Power Cable

Quote:
Originally Posted by Subs4life View Post
My experience with large cable came when I mounted my cranking & accessory batteries in the trunk for better/quicker weight transfer at the dragstrip. I've never had a multimeter to the ends of the cable, but in my endeavors I've used 2ga, 1/0ga,& 3/0 Which is curerently what's on my '72 Challenger now. I rember a "general rule" in racing magazines which stated a certain loss of amps per foot, I didn't get satisfactory cranking until the 3/0 was installed. Ever heard of this loss rule, I can't find it list now, I know it's why wall current is A/C today instead of D/C. I was guessing restance & amps loss went hand in hand.
What you're talking about could make sense if you posted some numbers. I am trying to explain things in the realm of science and numbers, not just "rules of thumb." The fuse rating on an amp is another rule of thumb that isn't always accurate as an example.

With your situation you could be running enough power that you should have upgraded your power wires anyways, or if you're talking about playing music, you could be hitting transients in the song that effect your performance.

I talk too much for a lurker.
08-16-2009 10:29 AM
matt.u
Re: Power Cable

ok to the op knu wire is great i would go with it if i were you cheap and flexible.
08-16-2009 09:19 AM
Subs4life
Re: Power Cable

Quote:
Originally Posted by eglish View Post
Very true. Strands vs. more strands vs. solid is an AC argument when talking about resistance. So Optimus, buy 1/0 and run two strands since your planning on running more than 300amps (typical 1/0 rating).

Many companies also tin the strands for a number of reasons (rigidity, corrosion resistance and helps if you actually solder your wire like you're supposed to), like the Hyperflex mentioned. Be aware it says "silver-tinned" not silver/copper alloy. Any change in materials would technically increase resistance (because it's a change). Also if a wire is thicker than another wire of typical size, don't you think the company would market it better? So don't take the increase in size as a higher rating than the company gives it, they still use the same amount of copper.

And just as a curiosity, how many of you have actually worked with a strand of 100+ foot cable, regardless of gauge and tested the resistance yourself to know that it's actually higher or lower vs another strand? In your 10-20 ft, demos you shouldn't be seeing any resistance of your multimeter unless you have poor contacts or a poor meter or really small gauge wire.

tl;dr It's all about cross-sectional area when measuring same materials in 12VDC applications.
My experience with large cable came when I mounted my cranking & accessory batteries in the trunk for better/quicker weight transfer at the dragstrip. I've never had a multimeter to the ends of the cable, but in my endeavors I've used 2ga, 1/0ga,& 3/0 Which is curerently what's on my '72 Challenger now. I rember a "general rule" in racing magazines which stated a certain loss of amps per foot, I didn't get satisfactory cranking until the 3/0 was installed. Ever heard of this loss rule, I can't find it list now, I know it's why wall current is A/C today instead of D/C. I was guessing restance & amps loss went hand in hand.
08-16-2009 04:48 AM
eglish
Re: Power Cable

Quote:
Originally Posted by eckolancer View Post
X2 this info is correct you can get less resistance from a solid piece of copper vs. high strand count copper. There are some companies that sell 1/0 that is actually the size of 2/0. I had a 0 gauge that was the diam. of 000 gauge wire before.
Very true. Strands vs. more strands vs. solid is an AC argument when talking about resistance. So Optimus, buy 1/0 and run two strands since your planning on running more than 300amps (typical 1/0 rating).

Many companies also tin the strands for a number of reasons (rigidity, corrosion resistance and helps if you actually solder your wire like you're supposed to), like the Hyperflex mentioned. Be aware it says "silver-tinned" not silver/copper alloy. Any change in materials would technically increase resistance (because it's a change). Also if a wire is thicker than another wire of typical size, don't you think the company would market it better? So don't take the increase in size as a higher rating than the company gives it, they still use the same amount of copper.

And just as a curiosity, how many of you have actually worked with a strand of 100+ foot cable, regardless of gauge and tested the resistance yourself to know that it's actually higher or lower vs another strand? In your 10-20 ft, demos you shouldn't be seeing any resistance of your multimeter unless you have poor contacts or a poor meter or really small gauge wire.

tl;dr It's all about cross-sectional area when measuring same materials in 12VDC applications.
08-14-2009 10:36 AM
Burbarry
Re: Power Cable

Quote:
Originally Posted by creyc View Post
Normally you're spot on john, but in this case you are quite misinformed.



Strand count = marketing (and ease of bending)

Cross sectional area of copper = amperage!


If you want to carry more current, you need more copper, not a higher strand count. This means multiple parallel runs or 2/0, 3/0, 4/0 etc...

Hope this helps
X2 this info is correct you can get less resistance from a solid piece of copper vs. high strand count copper. There are some companies that sell 1/0 that is actually the size of 2/0. I had a 0 gauge that was the diam. of 000 gauge wire before.
08-14-2009 10:25 AM
johnecon2001
Re: Power Cable

Quote:
Originally Posted by fosg8freak View Post
This is where you're wrong. If you go look at a 4 awg scoche wire you'll see the diameter of the individual wires is pretty big. Add more strand count to those same size wires and you're right, theres more current capability. But no one does that. They make each individual strand smaller in diameter and stuff a crap ton more strands the the space given.

The difference between the current capability is more of what the material is made of, and the diameter of the wire bunch as a hole (given that the wire is round) than it is strand count.
I just said that... Albiet yes, it wouldn't still be that gauge. But I'm still correct.
08-14-2009 05:32 AM
mjf595
Re: Power Cable

Quote:
Originally Posted by Subs4life View Post
I do have a friend who is obsessed with ohms rating of speaker wires and has professed an ohms increases in coarse wire, however he bypasses the terminals in sub boxes, citing them as an check point for ohms increases too( I've taken his word, he's a ITT grad). If this is the case I've wasted money on fine 12 guage wire, I bought 200 feet to wire my home stereo speakers.
albeit it true, any change in metal is a point for increase, whether it be terminals on the sub itself, terminals on the box, or terminals on the amp.

unless its a direct wire from coil to amp board that is soldered then its really nothing thats going to cause a huge issue, ignore it.

and this is coming from someone who went to a real school for electrical engineering.
08-14-2009 04:17 AM
Optimus_Prime
Re: Power Cable

At this point money is not an object.
08-14-2009 04:16 AM
Optimus_Prime
Re: Power Cable

Well the fact is that i will have a SAZ 4500D in the ride come the middle or end of October and would like to run the best power cable i can keeping it to a minimum that can supply the beast for daily use.
08-13-2009 10:49 PM
fosg8freak
Re: Power Cable

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnecon2001 View Post
Here's where I'm coming from guys.
If the average 1/0awg cable has 4200~ strands of copper in it, and you find a cable with the same diameter strands, but with double the amount... It's going to carry more current/the same amount as 2 1/0awg lines.
I know strand count can equal greater flexibility, but if the strands are the same size and there are more of them... its going to be a bigger, higher current carrying cable.
This is where you're wrong. If you go look at a 4 awg scoche wire you'll see the diameter of the individual wires is pretty big. Add more strand count to those same size wires and you're right, theres more current capability. But no one does that. They make each individual strand smaller in diameter and stuff a crap ton more strands the the space given.

The difference between the current capability is more of what the material is made of, and the diameter of the wire bunch as a hole (given that the wire is round) than it is strand count.
08-13-2009 10:14 PM
johnecon2001
Re: Power Cable

Here's where I'm coming from guys.
If the average 1/0awg cable has 4200~ strands of copper in it, and you find a cable with the same diameter strands, but with double the amount... It's going to carry more current/the same amount as 2 1/0awg lines.
I know strand count can equal greater flexibility, but if the strands are the same size and there are more of them... its going to be a bigger, higher current carrying cable.
08-13-2009 09:23 PM
Subs4life
Re: Power Cable

24k Gold!
08-13-2009 08:14 PM
eliterox
Re: Power Cable

Bump for my question D:
08-13-2009 08:12 PM
Optimus_Prime
Re: Power Cable

well this turned out to be interesting, but all strand count etc aside, what would be the best wire to have 2 runs from alt to batts, and which wire has most current transfer as i am having to run about 15ft from alt to batts.
08-13-2009 07:56 PM
SCHMITTY
Re: Power Cable

Quote:
Originally Posted by Subs4life View Post
I do have a friend who is obsessed with ohms rating of speaker wires and has professed an ohms increases in coarse wire, however he bypasses the terminals in sub boxes, citing them as an check point for ohms increases too( I've taken his word, he's a ITT grad). If this is the case I've wasted money on fine 12 guage wire, I bought 200 feet to wire my home stereo speakers.
The speaker terminals you buy at Best Buy or Radioshack would most definitely increase resistance. I like to make my own. 1/4" bolts through the side of the box.

Quote:
Originally Posted by eliterox View Post
So this means that for example if u run several wires from my subwoofer terminal to the terminal on the box the imp rise would be lower? Mm... i know i just sound dumb but im just asking.

Kind of, larger wire and/or multiple runs of wire between the sub and amp will lower resistance generated between the sub and amp. Itwon't have any effect on impedance rise itself as that is generated by the woofer.

And btw , can anyone explain to me how do you guys run several power wires to a single wire input amplifier? Because im just running a single 4 gauge cable from my front batt to my rear one and then a single one to the distro blocks...

From what I understand, you don't. You do several runs of wire to a distro block that is located close to the amp and then do as many runs of as large of wire as the amp will support from the distro block to the amp (most amps only have one 0/1 gauge input). The only other thing that I can think of is that you could do a run of as large of wire as you can find between the distro block and the amp so as to cut down resistance as much as possible. (i.e. running 0/4 to a 0/1 input and cutting it down to fit.)

Please explain and clarify that to me and what are the benefits and how to please (I know im asking too much lol).

Ty in advance ppl
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