Best Bang for The Buck - Realm of Excursion



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Old 04-11-2014   #1 (permalink)
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Question Best Bang for The Buck

Hey guys,

A friend told me to check this website out because i am fairly new to Car audio and he said you all could help me out! I am looking for the best bang for the buck in my system. I had some weird brand of subs and I believe a Menace amp? And some cheap speakers. All around the set up and installation I had was crap and cheap. Let alone the music I listen to is electronic. You know, dubstep, complextro, house. So I know these speakers definitely didn't have the wattage or power to handle all that comes through.

Now I make music myself, so as far as quality goes in songs, I am no rookie to that. And i was almost certain these speakers could not handle the music I like to enjoy.. being a blew two speakers within the first month of installation.

So guys, can you help me here, please?

An example of what i like to listen to: [YOUTUBE]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zq6qP-eFBFU[/YOUTUBE]
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Old 04-11-2014   #2 (permalink)
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Default Re: Best Bang for The Buck

Speakers dont blow because they can't handle the music, they blow because they either exceeded their thermal rating or mechanical limit.

This is caused by either poor installation or settings or the user not knowing what or how to monitor signs of stress.

You will continue to blow speakers until you learn what happened to the last set of speakers.
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Old 04-11-2014   #3 (permalink)
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Default Re: Best Bang for The Buck

Well if anything it would of been poor installation.
Because I wasn't playing music loud enough to leak.
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Old 04-12-2014   #4 (permalink)
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Default Re: Best Bang for The Buck

More than likely it's a lack of supporting electrical. You'd be better served giving us a budget you have to work with, and what you'd like to replace. We can help you from there.
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Old 04-12-2014   #5 (permalink)
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Default Re: Best Bang for The Buck

Quote:
Originally Posted by shizzzon View Post
Speakers dont blow because they can't handle the music, they blow because they either exceeded their thermal rating or mechanical limit.

This is caused by either poor installation or settings or the user not knowing what or how to monitor signs of stress.

You will continue to blow speakers until you learn what happened to the last set of speakers.
Agreed 100%.

If his equipment is really as cheap as he's leading us to believe, it probably doesn't draw $#!+ for amperage. I don't know that the electrical is the problem. My guess is that the gain was maxed for more output, everything was clipping, and the EQ was maxed trying to make up for the speaker quality and lack of power and that crossovers weren't set correctly.
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Old 04-12-2014   #6 (permalink)
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Default Re: Best Bang for The Buck

I agree with shizzon and arc as the op stated " cheap and crap " time to start over but we could help better if we knew what kind of budget there is and what he wants to accomplish with it
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Old 04-12-2014   #7 (permalink)
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Default Re: Best Bang for The Buck

Quote:
Originally Posted by arcwcb View Post
Agreed 100%.

If his equipment is really as cheap as he's leading us to believe, it probably doesn't draw $#!+ for amperage. I don't know that the electrical is the problem. My guess is that the gain was maxed for more output, everything was clipping, and the EQ was maxed trying to make up for the speaker quality and lack of power and that crossovers weren't set correctly.
It could be the problem if he has a cheap 1Kwrms amp using 8awg wire and a bad earth point.
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Old 04-12-2014   #8 (permalink)
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Default Re: Best Bang for The Buck

So right now i am looking at a 400 dollar budget, of course things would be in chunks.
So actually anywhere from the 400-600 range budget.
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Old 04-12-2014   #9 (permalink)
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Default Re: Best Bang for The Buck

What are you wanting to spend that money on subs amps cd player and so on you say it will be in chunks completely understandable is this chunks of $600 or $600 total ?
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Old 04-12-2014   #10 (permalink)
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Default Re: Best Bang for The Buck

It will most likely be chunks of 400-600.
Right now I have a pioneer deck. Right now I would be looking for sub's and speakers. If you guys can, what would be good in the 400-600 chunks and if you guys can price me a 400-600 total. Just to see what I can work with. But undoubtedly the chunks would be better.
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Old 04-12-2014   #11 (permalink)
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Default Re: Best Bang for The Buck

Used or new? Caraudioclassifieds.org is fairly safe for picking up good used gear.
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Old 04-12-2014   #12 (permalink)
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Default Re: Best Bang for The Buck

As jay said caco is a pretty good place for used stuff ive seen some pretty sweet deals on there what pioneer deck do you have and are you gona run your mids and highs off of it
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Old 04-12-2014   #13 (permalink)
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Default Re: Best Bang for The Buck

Used -

Subs -
2 Tantric LD12's 225 shipped - Car Audio Classifieds
2 Obsidian Audio 12's 200 shipped - Car Audio Classifieds

Speakers -
Eclipse/Morel comps 145 shipped - Car Audio Classifieds

New -

4ch amps -
PPI 95wrms x 4 @ 4ohm 110 - Precision Power PPI BK520.4 Black Ice 520W 4-Channel Amplifier
Hifonics ZRX 125wrms x 4 @ 4ohm 120 - Hifonics ZRX1000.4 Zeus Series 1000W 4-Channel Car Amplifier

Monoblocks -
PPI BK1800wrms 200 - Precision Power PPI BK1800.1D Black Ice 1800W Monoblock Class-D Amplifier
Hifonics BRX1700wrms 210 - Hifonics Brutus BRZ 1700.1D Class-D 1700W Monoblock Amplifier

Subs -
Sundown SA-12's 200 - Sundown Audio SA-12 600 watt sub woofer
SSA Gcon's 240 - GCON-12 Sound Solutions Audio 12" 750W GCON Series Subwoofer - SSA STORE
Soundqubed HDS12's 140 - Death Penalty-15 D1 Incriminator Audio 15" 1500W Dual 1-Ohm Death Penalty Series

Speakers -
Sundown SA6.5 comps 200 - Sundown Audio SA-6.5CS 6.5" Component Set - SSA STORE
Crescendo CZ6.5 comps 120 - Crescendo Audio


With speakers there are hundreds you could buy under $200 that people would recommend, but how good they actually sound is based purely on what you've actually listened to before.

Also, give us some info on what you have. Details like what vehicle, any electrical upgrades, what size wire you're running to your amps, HU model, and speaker sizes you want.
Have you ever built an enclosure before? Do you have tools to do it or know someone who can?
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Old 04-12-2014   #14 (permalink)
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Default Re: Best Bang for The Buck

Oh awesome, I really appreciate the fast help guys.
I have an acura. No electrical upgrades, car is stock right now. As far as boxes go I know someone who could make one. I have no experience with any of this.
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Old 04-12-2014   #15 (permalink)
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Default Re: Best Bang for The Buck

There's a few things you'll have to accept about car audio, like it will cost you more than you think to get a good system and keep it from dying.
The major point overlooked by most people is your electrical. A car is not a house, it doesn't have unlimited power to send the system. It has a standard alternator that is designed to support what the car came with from the factory, and not much more. It has one battery to start the car and support the car's electrical; Lights, radio, power accessories etc. All of that will draw about 60-100amps depending on the vehicle and how many things you use at once, so the alternator will only produce 120-140amp max. If you throw a couple more amplifiers in the mix, they alone will need 50-100amp if they're small (Ie: 50wrms x 4ch and 1000wrms mono). So off the bat you're trying to draw more amperage than what the alternator can supply. That's why you get lights dimming when you crank your system, it's sucking power from them to feed the amps. Usually with a small system like that you can get away with it by using the minimum of the cars electrical (lights and aircon off etc). If you want better electrical to support the system, you buy a higher output alternator and a bigger battery or more batteries.
Then you face the problem of getting the power from the alternator and batteries to the amps. This is where you need large wiring (1/0awg preferably) in order to carry the current. Small wire is no good, think of it like having gone without water for 3 days then trying to suck from a 40oz through a 10' long 1/4" straw. You'll hyperventilate and pass out. Or your amps will overheat and go up in smoke. And because electricity moves around a circuit, you need all parts of the loop to carry the current. So you need to upgrade some of the cars stock wiring too. The main parts being the Alt to Battery, Battery to Chassis, and Chassis to Engine (which is attached to the Alt). This is known as the Big 3. While on this area, don't forget fuses. They're like insurance. You won't need them until something goes wrong, and then they protect your investment.
Also related to current draw is the type of battery you use. Wet cells are designed to start your car and support consistent draw from lights and aircon. Amps however are not consistent, they draw massive amounts quickly then drop the draw, over and over. So you want a battery designed to support that kind of fast transient draw, like a deep cycle SLA (Sealed Lead Acid). The most popular SLA in Car Audio is the AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat), and have a specific rating to look for called AH (Amp Hour). This rating tells you how long it will support a certain draw before discharging below usable voltage. The higher the rating the better, but you can be limited by size. Usually you'll only get a 75-100AH battery in the stock location under the hood. Probably 75AH in the case of an Acura. But the more the better so you can always put another in the boot since you'll be running wire back there anyway.

That's the basics, we'll go into it further when you absorb the fact you're gonna have to spend money to make it worthwhile.
Here's my build log so far of what I have to do to support the potential 7-800amp draw that my system needs. (Skip through to about post 30 for the electrical side of it)
http://forum.realmofexcursion.com/bu...ew-system.html
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