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pornstar 02-20-2006 09:25 PM

[How To] Build or recone a speaker
well, it's the thread you've been waiting for.. how to do a recone.

most recones will be done the same way, regardless of the manufacturer (when we're talking about higher end subs)

the process is the same, if you are simply doing a recone for the same size, or if you are upgrading to a different size. the only differance is replacing the basket.

for this tutorial, we're reconing an RE MT 12" to an RE MT 18"

the motors are the same whether its a 10, 12, 15, or 18 so the only thing that gets changed is the basket and cone.

so, lets get started..........

pornstar 02-20-2006 09:53 PM

ok, so the first thing is to have your recone kit ready.

here is what is included with your RE recone kit..

basket, basket seal, dust cap, cone assembly (cone, coil, former, tinsel leads, spiders, and surround, all pre-assembled at RE ) RE also includes 2 bottles of black CA glue, and 1 bottle of CA accelerator.

then we get our sub ready for the recone.

here is the 12" MT

1st we cut out the surround. use a nice NEW sharp razor blade and it'll cutlikewarm butter. just cut the surround all the way around. it doesnt needto be completely removed like i did, i only did it for the pictures. basically you just want the cone separated from the basket/surround landing.

next, you want to cut the tinsel leads, and cut all the way around the spider. so its completely separatedfrom the basket/spider landing now the cone and voice coil can lift out of the basket.

pornstar 02-20-2006 10:06 PM

now, at this point, we have two directions to go in, either a straight recone, or a basket andcone swap for a different sized sub.

either way, the next step should be to take some masking tape (blue painters tape works well, and wont leave behind a sticky residue) to cover the voice coil gap. you DONT want any dust, dirt, metalshavings,etc... to get down inside the gap. or it will take forever to get them out.

i say this, because i FAILED to cover my gap with tape. and when i removed the basket, i stripped the screws and got LOTS of metal shavings inside the gap. it took me over 3 hours to get them all out before we could continue the recone. as those shavings can get caught between the coil andthe pole and lock up the motor.

so, with the gap covered, lets continue.

if you are just doing a recone, you now need to take a dremel tool, with a grinding wheel and grind ALL of the surround AND epoxy off the basket/surround landing. then you need to use the grinding wheel and remove all of the spider and epoxy off the basket/spider landing.

you want a nice clean smooth basket before starting to glue on the new recone.

its also not a bad idea, for the price, to just order a new basket when you order a recone. makes reconing faster, as you can just clean the old basket later.

so anyway, for me, we are using a new basket. so all we need to do is remove the 6 screws holding the basket on the motor, so everything is now separate. motor, basket, old cone.

with everything separate, we now clean up the motor, remove the tape, and get it ready for the new basket.

and now we attach the new basket to the motor with the 6 screws provided with the new basket. get all the screws in by hand, so the basket is on even, then tighten the screws down, going in a criss crossing star pattern, much like you would on a tire, so its tightened down even all the way around.

pornstar 02-20-2006 10:14 PM

with the new basket and motor ready , its time to crack open the glue.

first we put a nice thick bead of epoxy all the way around the spider landing. you want the ca thick enough that when we press on the recone, it will press the ca out the edge, so it really gets good coverage.

after the spider landing has a nice bead, we want to place the gap centering tool in the gap, so that when we put the recone on, its nicely centered in the gap. the tool we used is an older official RE gap tool, but they dont send those out any more. what they recommend is using a Manilla folder, cut to fit so it doesnt overlap on itself in the gap. note: that's for an MT. whatever sub you recone, you want to check with the manufacturer and find out what they recommend using for a centering tool.

then we start putting a goodthick coat on the surround landing.

pornstar 02-20-2006 10:20 PM

with both landings completely covered in glue and the centering tool in place, its time to put the recone in place.

you want to carefully slidethe recone down over the centering tool, and MAKE SURE you have the recone situated so that the tinsel leads are lined up with your terminal ends on the basket.

now you want to start applying even pressure to the center of the cone, pressing it donw onto the glue beads.

then start working the edges of the surround. all the way arround, moving a few inches at a time. pressing and evening out the surround, then hit it with a little accelerator from the top AND from the underside. this is why it was important to have a thick bead, because it leaks out under the edgeof the surround, whihc makes it great when youstart hitting it with accelorator.

pornstar 02-20-2006 10:32 PM

once we worked all the way around the surround, and hit it all with accelorator, we go quickly around the edge, where the surround meets the very edge of the basket, with another bead of glue. so now the surround is sandwiched in place with glue on the top and bottom. dont be skimpy with your glue, because that's what holds your sub together, but also be clean with it. you dont want the glue all sloppy.

now you want to perform thesame process on the spider, working all the way around, gently butfirmly pressing down on the cone so the spider is firmly seated on the glue bead on the spider landing. you'll actually see the glue start seaping through the spider material. hit it with accelorator, and go all the way around, just like on the surround.

hit the spider with a bead of glue on the top edge, as best as you can, it wont be as easy as the surround was, because the basket arms will be in the way, but do the best you can. and try to keep it only on the very edge of the spider. and hit that with accelorator.

now we're ready to apply the dustcap.

pornstar 02-20-2006 10:41 PM

hold the dust cap in your hand, and give it a nice thick bead of glue all the way around.

the next part is one of the most important, making sure you get the dustcap as centered as possible.

most people will want the dustcap lined up so it sits straight depending on how you install the sub in your enclsoure, but it doesnt matter really, how the lettering is situated, whats important is that the dustcap is centered on the cone, so its not off balanced.

place the dust cap on thecone, get it centered, and then give it another bead of glue around the outside top edge, just like we did for the surround and spider.

and of course, hit it with accelorator. since the surround and spider arent really visible (once the gasket is in place, wedont worry too much about covering anything.) but for the dust cap we want to cover the dustcap with something, so you dont get accelorator all over it when you hit it. since it has the sub logo on it.

now, were all done. its time to put some weight on the cone and dust cap to holde everything in place while the glue dries.

a 10" mtx that was sitting around the shop came in handy as a nice even weight on the cone :)

pornstar 02-20-2006 10:45 PM

at this point, all that is left to do, is to solder the tinsel leads, and apply the basketseal (gasket)

but, before doing that, its a good idea to let the sub sit, with the center weight on it, for about 24 hours.

tommorrow i'll take some more pics, when i apply the gasket and attach the tinsels. and then the recone will be complete.


many thanks to mike stiers of maxxsonics for doing the recone for me. as i knew what to do, but had never actually done one myself, so mike did it for me, so i could see one done through completion before attempting it myself.

maybe when i do the next one, i'll video tape it and put together a video turorial to make things easier to follow along :)

final pics tommorrow.

ROE 02-20-2006 11:25 PM

very nice post...this is gonna be a sticky.

btw, is it true that when you use an accelerator, the glue isn't as strong?

pornstar 02-20-2006 11:49 PM

i know that if you use TOO MUCH and cause the glue to dry too fast, the glue becomes brittle and the holding abilities aren't as strong anymore.

when i used to race rc cars we used the same epoxy and accelerator to glue the tires to the rims.

i always sprayed the accelerator with a pump top (just like mike did in the pics above from a hair spray bottle) so you are just hitting the outside layer of the glue with a fine mist of accelerator.

on a sub recone, its just to get it to firm up on the outside, so you can get everything to hold in placewhile you work around the sub.

but, backto rc cars, i knew people that would glue thier tire to the rim, and then soak the entire tire and rim in a bucket of accelerator !!!

they would do it to get the glue dried instantly so they could hurry andtry new tires on a track for a bigrace or something. the problem was that, then thier tires would only hold for a race or two (4-8 minutes) before the glue joint wouldbreak up.

so yes, i would say, using too much on a sub, would havethe same effect.

that's why mike used the spray pump to hit the glue, instead of just squirting on a boatload of glue.

pornstar 02-28-2006 02:06 PM

sorry, i neglected this thread a little.

here are the rest of the pics.

after the epoxy is dried (at least a few hours) you can go ahead and remove the weight from the dustcap and clean up the sub.

now we need to solder the tinsel leads.
(sorry didnttakepics of each step)
i prefer to use some flux paste anytime i solder.

so, first i appliedsome paste to the terminal leads. then i applied some paste to the end of the tinsel leads.

apply some solder to thelead tips and to the terminals.

using a pair of needle nose pliers i solder the tinsel leads to the terminal ends. with just enough of the tinsel lead touching to hold it nice and solid.

basically you want your tinsel leads to be as long as possible.

after soldering them, bend the wiresslightly. this will make sure they dont touch, and will help reduce tinsel slap.

just need to install the basket seal (gasket) and its done.

and here ya go. a completed MT

note: if you did a really good job with yourepoxy, then chances are, your screw holes are probably filled in with epoxy.

you'll want to use a drill and CAREFEULLY drill through the epoxy where the screw holes are in the basket.

ROE 04-18-2006 04:37 AM

[VID] How a Speaker Is Made
this is by far one of the most informative videos on how a speaker is made.

props to the discovery channel for producing the documentry.

watch and learn :D.

DevilDriver 08-21-2006 10:59 AM

Dave from RE Audio building an SE from start to finish.


DevilDriver 10-11-2006 09:37 AM

Re: [How To] Build or recone a speaker
Discussion for this sticky can be found HERE


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